Marcel: French Cuisine Without Borders

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Marcel: French Cuisine Without Borders

French cuisine has a long and fascinating history, evolving from regional traditions and rustic peasant cooking into the highly structured haute cuisine that would influence professional kitchens around the world. But cuisine doesn’t remain frozen in time, and neither does a chef’s interpretation of it.

For Jeremy Duclut, French cuisine is the foundation, not a set of rules.

Duclut, a French-born chef who was the original chef at Cassis for many years, has been a familiar and respected figure in the St. Petersburg culinary scene. After leaving Cassis and opening restaurants of his own, he has had the opportunity to develop something beyond a particular regional French style. His newest restaurant, Marcel, in the former location of Left Bank Bistro, feels like the culmination of that evolution.

The food is unmistakably French in its technique and sensibility, but it doesn’t seem particularly interested in following tradition for tradition’s sake. Instead, Duclut takes familiar ideas and ingredients and puts his own stamp on them, often incorporating influences from well beyond France.

You can see France in the Dijon, beurre blanc, maĆ®tre d’ butter, foie gras, escargot and sweetbreads. Italy appears in cacio e pepe, pecorino Romano, burrata and gremolata. There are Spanish touches in Manchego, Galician potatoes and saffron; North African influence in merguez; Japanese and Asian ingredients in edamame and rice noodles; Mexican in poblano; Mediterranean in chickpeas, olive oil and herbs; and even an American influence in the braised rabbit pot pie.

Yet this doesn’t come across as culinary fusion for the sake of fusion. There is a French sensibility holding everything together. Duclut isn’t simply combining cuisines; he is taking familiar dishes and ingredients, understanding what makes them work, and then asking what else they could become.

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The Caprese is a perfect example. Anyone expecting the traditional arrangement of thick slices of raw tomato, mozzarella and basil will find something quite different at Marcel. Duclut uses small bites of tomato marinated with shallot, garlic, oregano and balsamic, along with creamy burrata and avocado. It retains the essential character of a Caprese while transforming the experience. Lori called it the best Caprese she has ever had, and I agree. (More on that below.)

That is what makes Marcel so compelling. These aren’t interpretations that feel like departures from French cooking. They feel like the work of a French chef who has absorbed a world of culinary influences and is now completely comfortable making them his own.

French cuisine provides the vocabulary. Jeremy Duclut provides the voice.

I asked him, “What do you want people to understand about Marcel that might not be immediately apparent?” He said, “Marcel is my dad’s middle name and the entire concept is based on the dream of every chef … to have a small enough restaurant to make the food we really enjoy making and eating. I also love the fact that we are off the path of downtown to be more of a casual place.”

Chef-Owner Jeremy Duclut thanks everyone for coming for the media dinner on Thursday, September 10, 2026
Chef-Owner Jeremy Duclut thanks everyone for coming for the media dinner on Thursday, September 10, 2026

We were excited to be invited to the media dinner, and couldn’t wait to dig in.Ā We don’t always say yes to bread, but when we heard it was sourdough, we had to try it. The sourdough rolls are made in-house and they are perfect. (Most restaurants do not make their own bread, but source it from bakeries.) The rolls are golden-brown and crisp on the outside, soft and airy within, with a delicate tang of sourdough. When you tear one open while it’s still hot, a wisp of steam escapes from the pillowy inside. As you would expect at a good restaurant, the butter is at perfect spreading temperature.

Sourdough Rolls
Sourdough Rolls

It is not only the food that has Marcel’s own unique twists, but also the cocktails. We started with the Monsieur Victor Hugo and the L’eau De La Seine – meaning – Mr. Victor Hugo and The Water of the Seine.

Monsieur Victor Hugo – “Our play on the Hugo spritz” – gin, elderflower liqueur, white wine, sparkling water, mint, lime.

L’eau De La Seine – “A dirty Martini as dirty as the Seine river” – extra virgin olive oil washed vodka, Noilly Prat, olive brine.

Marcel’s take on the Victor Hugo adds gin, and replaces prosecco with white wine. You still get the fizz from the sparkling water.

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For their version of the Dirty Martini they infuse the vodka with extra-virgin olive oil, then chill it and separate/filter out the oil. The vodka retains some of the aromatic and savory characteristics of the olive oil without actually being oily or greasy. So rather than simply making an exceptionally dirty Martini by adding more brine, they’re adding another layer of olive character. Noilly Prat is a particularly appropriate choice: it’s a French dry vermouth with a fairly distinctive herbal, savory profile, so this is likely intended to be a more gastronomic Martini than a simple vodka-and-brine drink. I thought it was fantastic.

Monsieur Victor Hugo (L) & L'eau De La Seine (R)
Monsieur Victor Hugo (L) & L’eau De La Seine (R)

For our starters we chose the Caprese and the Tuna Tartare. They were both great, but the caprese’s tomatoes stole the show. They are marinated, blistered, and just bursting with flavor, way more interesting than the usual plain fresh slices you get with caprese. They’re sweet, a little tangy, and packed with concentrated tomato flavor. The burrata on top is creamy and mellow to make a rich backdrop, and the avocado adds a nice buttery layer. A little peppery arugula and balsamic round it out. This is the perfect example of how a caprese can be so much more than just the standard tomato-mozzarella-basil.

Caprese Salad
Caprese Salad

The Tuna Tartare has a striking presentation with the tuna and avocado stacked together in a cylinder shape and a towering nest of crispy fried rice noodles piled on top. It’s bright, a little citrusy, and really fresh-tasting. Then you get into those crispy fried noodles and it’s an awesome crunch-against-silky contrast. The smart and surprising addition is the poblano aioli. It brings a smoky, mildly spicy depth, and it is cleverly tucked into a savory tuile cone for a playful bit of plating fun.

Tuna Tartare
Tuna Tartare

The next two items we photographed, but did not eat. Our table-neighbor, Darren, who is the other half of Dawn Stewart / Taste Testers St. Pete offered to let us take pictures of some of his items. (Dawn was out of town.)

Baby Rocket Salad – Poached pear, candied walnut, blue cheese, honey – and the Foie Gras Torchon – Poached pear, port wine, candied nuts, fried bread.

Baby Rocket Salad
Baby Rocket Salad
Foie Gras Torchon
Foie Gras Torchon

The menu has a good mix of seafood and meats, and there is even a vegetarian meatball dish that our server Robbie told us was amazing. I couldn’t get myself to order meatballs without meat, but maybe next time.

We did want to get at least one thing from the ocean, and we landed on Sea Scallops. They come with cauliflower purée,  edamame, mushrooms and truffle. The scallops were flawlessly cooked, buttery in flavor, and almost melt-in-your-mouth tender. The purée was the smoothest and creamiest it could possibly be, the truffle sauce and mushrooms bring the rich savoriness with a little bit of bite and bright from the edamame twist.

Sea Scallops
Sea Scallops

As soon as I saw the Rabbit Pot Pie posted to social media, I knew I had to have it. This is the French take on American comfort food, and a nod to the most famous French Rabbit dish.

The menu has it as, Braised Rabbit Pot Pie “a la Moutarde” – baby carrots, potatoes, mushrooms, dijon, puff pastry. Notice the quotes?

Rabbit Ć  la moutarde is traditionally rabbit slow-braised and served covered in a rich Dijon cream sauce. Here they’ve taken all that flavor and tucked it under a golden puff pastry lid instead.

This one’s pure comfort food. Think chicken pot pie, but made by a French grandmother. The rabbit is braised low and slow until it’s completely fall-apart tender, and it all comes together with baby carrots, potatoes, and mushrooms in a sauce that’s rich and homey rather than sharp or mustardy. Despite the “Ć  la moutarde” in the name, this leans gentle and comforting more than tangy. A flaky, buttery puff pastry lid finishes it off, perfect for soaking up all that sauce underneath. Simple, warm, and the kind of dish that makes you want to slow down and savor it. (You are supposed to break the pastry and push it down into the crock, and mix it in. I just lifted it off first to show you what was underneath.)

Rabbit Pot Pie
Rabbit Pot Pie
Rabbit Pot Pie - A Look Inside
Rabbit Pot Pie – A Look Inside

Next up was the Chicken Paillard, “Lyonnaise Salad,” Bacon, Capers, Lemon

This one takes a classic and runs it through the fryer in the best way. The chicken is pounded thin, breaded, and fried until golden and crispy. It has a really craveable texture on the outside while staying juicy inside. The “Lyonnaise” salad piled on top is a fun twist on the classic: frisĆ©e tangled together with crispy bits of bacon, salty capers, and a good hit of lemon brightness cutting through all that richness. It’s a nice balance. The acidity and saltiness of the salad keep the fried chicken from feeling heavy, and the capers add little bursts of briny flavor throughout. Comfort food with just enough French bistro flair to keep it interesting.

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Chicken Paillard as Plated
Chicken Paillard as Plated
Chicken Paillard Closer look
Chicken Paillard Closer look

The Sea Bass with butternut squash ravioli, carrots, sage, and beurre blanc looks amazing. I can’t wait to get it next time. This photo was taken from the table next to us, Darren from Taste Testers St. Pete.

Sea Bass
Sea Bass

Martini Agrodulce – “The Best Espresso Martini You’ve Never Heard Of”

This is a genius reworking of the espresso martini for people who love amaro. Instead of vodka, it leans on two Italian amari – Averna, with its deep, bittersweet caramel and dried-fruit notes, and Zucca, which brings a lighter, rhubarb-tinged bitterness – to do the heavy lifting instead of just booze and coffee. Kahwa espresso still delivers that bold, roasty punch up front, but the amaro combo gives it way more complexity than a typical espresso martini: bittersweet, herbal, a little medicinal in the best way, balanced out by just enough simple syrup to keep it from tipping too far into bitter territory. It’s rich, a little bit dessert-like, and has way more depth than the coffee-and-vodka original. A must-try for anyone who thinks they’ve had every version of this cocktail already. Even though I like the hard stuff, I actually liked this version better.

Espresso Martini
Espresso Martini

For dessert we had the Banana Bread Pudding Tart and the Nutella Crème Brûlée.

The Banana Bread Pudding Tart comes with a show. The tart itself is warm, soft, banana-forward bread pudding baked into a tart shell, and then they finish it tableside with a pour of spiced rum that gets flambĆ©ed right there at the table – a little bit of theater before you even take a bite. The rum adds a warm, boozy caramel note that soaks into the bread pudding, and a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting on top cools everything down and rounds it out. Rich, comforting, and just fun to watch come together.

Banana Bread Pudding Tart
Banana Bread Pudding Tart

The Nutella CrĆØme BrĆ»lĆ©e is a great twist on the classic. There’s a layer of rich Nutella tucked at the bottom, so you get a surprise of chocolate-hazelnut flavor once your spoon breaks through the creamy vanilla custard on top. Then, of course, that classic crackly caramelized sugar shell finishes it off. It’s a fun play on textures and flavors. You get the familiar crĆØme brĆ»lĆ©e experience up top, and then a decadent surprise waiting underneath.

Nutella Creme BrƻlƩe
Nutella Creme BrƻlƩe

What makes Marcel worth seeking out is that it doesn’t feel like a restaurant trying to prove what French food is supposed to be. Jeremy Duclut clearly knows the traditions, but he’s comfortable enough with them to bend them, borrow from other cuisines, and sometimes turn them completely on their head. From a Caprese that becomes something far more interesting than the sum of its familiar parts to rabbit Ć  la moutarde transformed into a French-American pot pie, there is a sense of curiosity running through the menu.

Perhaps that’s the real appeal of Marcel. It’s a restaurant where a chef who has spent years mastering the language of French cooking finally gets to speak it in his own voice. There are plenty of things we didn’t get to try, which gives us a very good reason to come back. Marcel is going to be a restaurant we’ll be returning to.

Here are some photos of the interior and menus. All of the decor has been redone from the former restaurant.

Marcel
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  • Marcel
  • 727-502-2000
  • French, Italian, Mediterranean
    • Sun - Thu 4:30pm - 10:00pm
    • Fri - Sat 4:30pm - 11:00pm
  • View menu
  • Take Reservations: Yes!
  • 1225 Dr M.L.K. Jr St N, St. Petersburg, FL 33701, US

Contemporary French cuisine with global influences, blending classical French technique with Italian, Mediterranean, Spanish, and other international flavors.

DISCLAIMER: Kevin, Lori, Abby, Haley, Lindsey & Mahika do not dine anonymously (this would be impossible) and we sometimes get free food (though never expected). However, we dine with the locals and we support our own. You will always get honesty in a respectful manner. We do not include any large national or regional chains in our ratings and reviews. We focus on independent locally owned eateries exclusively.

PLEASE NOTE: Reviews reflect a certain moment in time. Some restaurants stay extremely consistent over many years, and some change for the better or worse. Some things that may change are: chefs, recipes, food suppliers, ingredients, philosophies, ownership, etc. We always hope that you have the same good, or great experience we had.
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