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I originally reviewed Fortu in their second month of operation in January 2024. Since then, about 90% of the original offerings in my review have left the building, and were replaced with even better items. Fortu was excellent then, and is even better now. In the little over a year that Fortu has been open they have become one of the most popular restaurants in St. Pete.
First, a little background.
The name Fortu is a made-up word that pays homage to fortune and Asian culture. The restaurant is located in the former location of Ceviche, attached to the Ponce De Leon Hotel, which was constructed in the 1920s. It’s old, and it looked old when Ceviche was there. Walking in there now, you would never know it. The design and renovation team did a spectacular job of transforming the place into a modern Asian eatery.
The service was top notch, and of note was my first inquiry. Roku Gin is an excellent Japanese gin, and Suntory, it’s maker, suggests to have it as a gin & tonic with a fresh ginger matchstick as the garnish. This is not how the drink is usually served, but by special request, I was accommodated.
A couple examples of the fine-dining level of service provided at Fortu – when asked for a straw for a tall glass drink, or a serving spoon for a shared plate, they were delivered on a platter, on a cloth napkin – whenever any crumbs or condensation soiled the table, they were immediately cleaned in between each dish.
Lori started her night with a wonderful drink named Seaside in Osaka. It has Beefeater 24 Gin, Kleos Mastiha, cucumber, and lemongrass. It is light and refreshing with just a hint of sweetness. It’s not only a great drink, but has a quite interesting ingredient.
Mastiha (mas-tee-hah) is a resin secreted from the skinos tree, found only in Chios, Greece. It is one of the most ancient superfoods known for its healing properties, used as a health and beauty supplement, and as a culinary spice. It is found on only one island in the world. You can learn more about it here.
We started our night with the Japanese A5 Strip Steak as it comes as an appetizer portion. This is one of the most luxurious steaks you can have. It has a balance of sweetness and umami, with a rich, meaty flavor. It is tender and juicy, with a delicate melt-in-your-mouth quality.
The accompaniments here are fermented egg yolk, black garlic sauce, truffle butter, and Cabernet salt. We enjoyed the steak with no additions, but tried them all as well. Lori’s favorite was the fermented egg yolk, and my two were the black garlic sauce and the Cabernet salt.
The menu doesn’t mention it, but the A5 strip is sourced from Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido. Lots of great Japanese foods come from there. Some of our other favorites are Hokkaido scallops, salmon, salmon roe, and tuna.
The above photo shows a hunk of the short loin primal before the chef cuts our steak. Just look at that marbling.
After jumping to the steak section, now we will go in order of the menu.
FOR THE TABLE
Our three items from the “For the Table” section were all culinary masterpieces.
Mille Feuille literally means “a thousand sheets”, and I could eat the Crispy Potato Mille Feuille 1,000 times. The potatoes are sliced paper-thin, salted, buttered, par-baked and then compressed with heavy weights for a day. They are pan-fried to finish with a crispy outside, and soft, buttery middle. Paring with the black truffle aioli completes the flavor-bomb and provides a nice creamy texture contrast with the crunchy outer layer of the potatoes. The chopped chives and finely grated cheese complete this gustatory pleasure.
I’m frequently let down when I order gyoza. Not this time. Fortu’s is different as it is Wagyu beef instead of the usual pork, but it is on the same delightfully delicious level. I like the unique wrapping and the perfect char.
The Spicy Pork Wonton with chili garlic crisp is craveable from the first bite. I could eat this every day. The wrappers are chewy and silky at the same time with the perfect amount of pork filling that is flawlessly seasoned. When we finished, I so badly wanted to pick up the bowl and drink the rest of the sauce. The spice level is approachable for most people.
RAW BAR
From the Raw Bar section of the menu we ordered the King Salmon Hand Roll with Togarashi and Sesame Seeds, and the Hamachi Crudo with white ponzu, chili oil. We thought both of these were good, but a little light on flavor and not something memorable.
SIGNATURE DISHES
We had four of the five signature dishes and they were all perfect.
I love that Fortu added Orange Chicken to the menu. It’s a classic Chinese-American takeout item that is super popular, but I’ve never seen it offered on a fine dining level. What fun!
The flavor and crunch was just right without having too much gloopy-gloppy-stickiness that you often find with takeout.
The scallops were buttery with a flavorful sesame cream. The choy saum, which is a mustard green was cooked where it was crisp, but not hard. The XO sauce completed the dish nicely.
The Wagyu Ribeye with shiso chimichurri was impeccable. It had a hard sear with a perfect medium-rare cook on the inside. It was juicy and packed with meaty flavor.
Miso Black Cod. Michelin Star Chef Nobu Matsuhisa created this dish and introduced it to diners in the 1980s at his Beverly Hills restaurant Matsuhisa. Fortu executed it quite nicely. It is served on a houba leaf from the Japanese magnolia. It comes with pickles of daikon radish, eggplant and cucumber.
Side Note: Black Cod is actually just a nickname, as the fish isn’t cod at all. It is Sablefish and comes from the Pacific Ocean. Actual cod comes from the Atlantic Ocean.
The miso creamed corn was surprisingly sweet. It tasted more like a dessert and reminded me of rice pudding and vanilla.
The Vegetable Fried Rice with Wagyu was one of the best fried rice dishes we’ve ever had. It was packed with flavor, had great varying textures for a wonderful mouthfeel with just the right amount of moisture without being too greasy.
We finished the night off with two splendid desserts and a final drink.
The Matcha Kanji is a mandatory drink to order at Fortu. It has 6 O’Clock Gin, sake, madeira, and matcha all perfectly balanced out for a smooth tasty beverage.
The Ube Cheesecake is super creamy- like a soft cream cheese on the inside with a semi-hard shell exterior with little crunchy bits of white chocolate embedded. Everything about this dessert was magical.
The Chocolate Mousse Cake is so new that it wasn’t even on the printed menu yet. It had similar characteristics as the cheese cake with a creamy filling and crunch exterior embedded with crunchies. It is nicely balanced out with a citrus cream on top to help cut through all that chocolatey goodness.
These are two of the best desserts ever created.
Here are some menu pages to help plan out your visit. Check out the last page with the Prix Fixe that is such a good deal.
Check out Mahika’s article on Fortu – A Peek Behind Fortu’s Premium Curtain
Pan-Asian Cuisine focused mostly on Japanese with Chinese and Korean. Includes raw bar items as well as Wagyu steaks.
PLEASE NOTE: Reviews reflect a certain moment in time. Some restaurants stay extremely consistent over many years, and some change for the better or worse. Some things that may change are: chefs, recipes, food suppliers, ingredients, philosophies, ownership, etc. We always hope that you have the same good, or great experience we had.