Interview with David Benstock & Ronald Randall from IL Ritorno – St. Petersburg Foodies Podcast Episode 39

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Kevin Godbee
May 28, 2019
1 min read

Interview with David Benstock & Ronald Randall from IL Ritorno

Welcome to the St. Petersburg Foodies Podcast Episode 39! Our featured interview today is with David Benstock & Ronald Randall from IL Ritorno. We talk to David & Ronald about their extensive experience in the business, all over the country, and the world, how they both worked at The Modern in NY before coming together at IL Ritorno… and we play he said she said with David and a clip from wife Erica when she was previously on the show. Today, our music comes from Mallory Moyer. We will feature the song, “Where Do We Go From Here?” from the EP “Solo Going” after Mallory answers The Fast Five Foodies Questions.

Listen right here with our player above, or use your favorite podcast listening app below.

David Benstock - Chef & Co-Owner of IL Ritorno — David Benstock – Chef & Co-Owner of IL Ritorno (Photo: Hype Group)

Ronald Randall - Sommelier & General Manager at IL Ritorno — Ronald Randall – Sommelier & General Manager at IL Ritorno (Photo: Hype Group)

The St. Petersburg Foodies Podcast features interviews with chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers, bartenders, and more, and covers the burgeoning food scene in St. Petersburg, Florida. Episodes air every Tuesday.

This episode of the St. Petersburg Foodies Podcast is brought to you by Buya Ramen, Annata Restaurant & Wine Bar, Engine No. 9, and Alto Mare Fish Bar.

Please keep them in mind the next time you are hungry for some fantastic food.

Our announcer is Candice Aviles from Meet the Chef and Channel 10 News. Our theme music is provided by The Chris Walker Band.

Links:

IL Ritorno Website

Mallory Moyer Website

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DISCLAIMER: Kevin, Lori, Abby, Haley, & Lindsey do not dine anonymously (this would be impossible) and we sometimes get free food (though never expected). However, we dine with the locals and we support our own. You will always get honesty in a respectful manner.

 PLEASE NOTE: Reviews reflect a certain moment in time. Some restaurants stay extremely consistent over many years, and some change for the better or worse. Some things that may change are: chefs, recipes, food suppliers, ingredients, philosophies, ownership, etc. We always hope that you have the same good, or great experience we had.

Podcast

May 28, 2019

Kevin Godbee

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Written by Kevin Godbee

Publisher & Co-Founder of St. Petersburg Foodies

Kansas City Barbeque Society Certified BBQ Judge #112881
World Food Championships Certified Food Judge #1541
Certified Chili Judge #62 by the International Chili Society
Certified Steak Judge #1562 by the Steak Cookoff Association
Certified Pizza Judge #14 by the Pizza Cookoff Association
Rouxbe Culinary School Enrollee
Culinary Institute of America "DISH" Member

I've always loved cooking. When I was 6-years old I wanted to cook. When my mom said that she was just running to the neighbor's and would be right back, I climbed onto the kitchen counter and found Lipton Instant French Onion Soup Mix. By the time my mom returned, I was stirring the pot on the stove, and proclaimed; "Look Mom! I'm cooking!"

In High School, I took three different cooking classes and got an A in each. After getting my first apartment, I used to cook 5-nights a week, and go out two nights. An old girlfriend from decades ago had a brother-in-law that was a CEO of a trucking company, and he used to entertain in Manhattan quite a bit ... and he started taking us along.

This was when I learned about gourmet food and fine wine. For a couple of years, Lori and I went out about 4-5 nights a week, but now we have a better balance of 50/50 between cooking at home, and going out to the amazing restaurants we are so lucky to have in our beloved St. Petersburg.

View all posts by: Kevin Godbee

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Recipes

May 1, 2023 Fish Tacos with Spicy Mango-Cabbage Slaw Recipe

Grilling hasn’t always been my forte or preference when it comes to cooking, but I’ve learned to love it as of recent. In fact, this Spring, my husband and I have probably grilled more dinners than not. It has inspired my cooking and sparked my imagination. An added bonus has been spending even more time outdoors before the summer heat sets in. Tacos are a favorite of mine when it comes to grilling. I love getting nice smokey and charred notes on my protein of choice and intermingling that with bright toppings to balance things out. For an added bonus, I also enjoy letting the tortillas get some time in on the grill too in order to achieve some grill marks and warmth. It all just totally works. When it comes to tacos, I typically opt for the “less is more” philosophy. I’ve learned that too many toppings usually just leads to a mess of overstuffed tacos with too much going on. Because of this, I try to keep things simple with just a few different components. I like to have a distinctive filling/protein with either a salsa or slaw for vibrancy and some kind of crema or drizzle to bring it all together. Additionally, you can always find me serving tacos with lime wedges and fresh cilantro – that’s it. These particular tacos stay consistent with that formula. Marinated, flakey, wild-caught cod, a spicy mango-cabbage slaw and an avocado crema to round things out. They’re lively, zesty and full of flavor. You don’t have to use cod – any white fish will work. Mahi Mahi or Halibut would also be quite nice here. Rollin’ Oats has frozen wild caught filets with superb quality. When cooked, they’re supremely flakey and mild in taste. They also absorb marinade ingredients well which complement the fish without overtaking its natural flavor. The spicy slaw adds a great bit of texture, level of freshness and also a subtle touch of fire from the jalapeno and tajin. If you don’t have tajin (which is essentially a seasoning blend of peppers, lime and salt), chili powder will work just fine in its place. As far as tortillas are concerned, everyone always has their desired choice. Mine happens to be the smaller street style taco flour tortillas. To me, they’re much less overwhelming and easier to consume. However, there are plenty of other great options out there. At Rollin’ Oats, they have a plethora of options, including, but not limited to: hard shell, flour, corn, grain-free, etc. Stacey’s organic white flour tortillas and Siete Foods almond flour tortillas are my favorite offerings of theirs, but again, choose your own journey. Fish Tacos with Spicy Mango-Cabbage Slaw Recipe These tacos are light and vibrant with a touch of zing. Grilling is the preferred method for preparation; however, air frying or searing in a skillet will work just as well. Spicy Mango-Cabbage Slaw1 cup red cabbage (chopped/shredded)1 cup green cabbage (chopped/shredded)1/2 red onion (sliced thin)1 jalapeno (seeds and stem discarded and minced)1 mango (peeled and cut into small cubes)1 lime (juice and zest)1/4 cup cilantro (chopped)2 tsp tajin (chili powder can be used as a substitute )2 tbsp olive oil1 tsp salt (plus more to taste)Avocado Crema1/2 avocado1/4 cup sour cream1 lime (juice only)1/4 cup water (as needed)1 tsp saltFish Taco Assembly8 flour tortillas (use whatever kind you like – we love smaller street taco tortillas, but any will do)1 lb cod (or other flakey white fish)2 limes (one for the fish marinade and one cut into wedges for serving)2 1/2 tbsp olive oil1/2 tsp cumin1/2 tsp paprika1/2 tsp salt1/4 tsp black peppercilantrohot sauce Spicy Mango-Cabbage SalwCombine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Season with salt as needed and refrigerate until ready to assemble tacos.Avocado CremaAdd all ingredients to a food processor and blend until mixture is smooth but semi-easy to drizzle. Add water 1 tbsp at a time and blend and repeat as needed. Season with salt to taste.Fish and Taco AssemblyIn a medium bowl, combine 2 tbsp olive oil, juice of 1 lime, paprika, cumin, salt and pepper. Add cod, coat in mixture and allow to sit and absorb marinade for at least 20 minutes. Heat grill to medium high and brush grates with remaining 1/2 tbsp of olive oil. Grill fish 3-4 minutes per side until cooked through. Remove from grill.Optional step: while fish cooks, add tortillas to grill and heat for 30 seconds or so.Break fish into smaller segments. For taco assembly, spoon in some slaw, add fish segments, top with a touch more slaw, drizzle with crema and top with cilantro. Serve with lime wedges and sides of choice, like grilled corn or rice and beans. Dinner, Main CourseAmerican, MexicanFish Taco Recipe, Mango-Cabbage Slaw
April 4, 2023 Seared Halloumi and Chicken Pita Recipe

If you’ve never seared off a piece of cheese, this is your sign. Specifically, Halloumi cheese. Halloumi is a cheese made from goat’s and sheep’s milk (and sometimes cow). The texture of the cheese out of the packaging is quite squeaky and less-desirable. When seared, however, it transforms into a melty, savory delight. Unlike most all cheeses, Halloumi possesses enough structure to maintain its stature when hit with high heat. When you’re cooking the cheese, make sure to keep a close eye on things. When the cheese begins to take on color after a couple of minutes, it will cook rather quick so be careful not to burn or overcook it. I’ve done that plenty of times, which makes for a rather tough and chewy piece of cheese – and no one likes that. I recommend having the pitas mostly assembled before searing the halloumi. The cheese is best when it is served as warm as possible. During the month of April in Florida, there’s an abundance of produce in season. So, we’re packing the seared Halloumi into a local-made pita with chicken and a vibrant vegetable like tomato, cucumber, watermelon radish and onion. To even things out a bit, we’re also adding a rich and flavorful yogurt sauce that is comprised of lots of garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper. The fresh pitas mentioned above are crafted by Sami’s Bakery, which is located right here in Tampa Bay. You can find these at Rollin’ Oats – along with the rest of the lineup for this pita. The particular pitas by Sami’s that I used for this recipe were the white ones; however, they also make low carb, whole wheat, millet and flax options. If you wanted, you could pass on the pita and make this one big and beautiful greek salad situation that I would recommend tossing with a Greek inspired vinaigrette made with balsamic, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano. Seared Halloumi and Chicken Pita Recipe Seared cheese, loads of fresh spring vegetables, chicken, quality pita and a garlic-yogurt sauce – what could be better? Not much at all. Dutch Oven 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (cut into 2" pieces)8 oz halloumi (sliced into 1/4-1/2 inch thick pieces)4 pitas1/2 cucumber (sliced into thin rounds)2 roma tomatoes (sliced into thin half moons)2 watermelon radishes (sliced thin (preferably on a mandolin) – if you can't find these, red radishes will work)1 cup romaine (chopped and tossed with juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 tsp olive oil and salt and pepper)1/4 cup red onion (sliced thin)1 lemon (juice only, plus more wedges for serving)1/4 cup parsley (chopped)5 oz plain greek yogurt3 garlic cloves (minced)2 tbsp olive oil (divided, plus one tsp)saltpepper Garlic Yogurt SauceCombine yogurt, minced garlic, juice of 1/2 lemon and salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Season additionally as needed. Place yogurt in the refrigerator until ready to assemble pitas.ChickenHeat 1 tbsp olive oil in a dutch oven over medium heat. Add in chicken and sear until cooked through and beginning to brown on all sides – 8-10 minutes. Remove from skillet and set aside.HalloumiCarefully wipe out the dutch oven, bring heat back up to medium and pour in another tbsp of olive oil. Add in sliced halloumi and sear for 2-3 minutes or until it begins to take on color. Flip and sear for an additional 1/2 minute.Pita AssemblyTo assemble, warm pitas (optional) and spread a couple of spoon-fulls of yogurt sauce on top of them. Layer with seasoned lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, radish, chicken, halloumi, onion, parsley and more yogurt sauce.Serve pitas with additional lemon wedges. Dinner, Main Course, SandwichAmerican, GreekPita Bread, Seared Halloumi
March 2, 2023 Miso-Spinach Pesto Pasta with Lemony Breadcrumbs Recipe

At one point or another, you’ve probably enjoyed or even made some form of pesto. The standard starting lineup for most pesto recipes is typically pine nuts, parmesan, garlic, lots of fresh basil, olive oil and salt. In this rendition, we’re totally shaking things up using mellow white miso, spinach, cilantro (in addition to basil), lemon juice and soaked cashews in place of pine nuts (and of course oil and salt) to create a delicious and creamy miso-spinach pesto. There’s a good chance that the ingredients for this pesto are already on your weekly grocery shopping list. Miso is probably the outlier, but it’s definitely an ingredient that I recommend keeping on hand. What is miso, exactly? It’s a fermented paste that is made with a cultured mix of soybeans, a grain (often rice or barley), salt and koji, which is a type of mold. The mixture is then fermented for as little as a few weeks and as long as a few years. It’s packed with umami and has a number of uses in the cooking world. Often, it is added to soups (hello, miso soup), marinades, sauces, dressings, and so on. Rollin’ oats carries Miso Master organic miso in mellow white, sweet, red and chickpea miso as well as Cold Mountain white miso. I always opt for Miso Master though, because it is organic. In this pesto recipe, miso adds a lovely savoriness that salt alone cannot provide. I’ve included an optional homemade pasta recipe to pair with the beautiful and bright miso-spinach pesto. But if you do not have the equipment, patience or time for homemade pasta – simply opt for a quality store bought option. Rollin’ Oats has two great organic spaghetti options on their shelves that I like – one by Alessi and the other by Field Day. For added crunch and texture, don’t skip out on the lemony breadcrumbs. You can absolutely use store bought panko (like Edward & Sons organic panko), but I recommend grating your own breadcrumbs with some sourdough bread and a course paddle microplane. I recommend using Gulf Coast Sourdough, which also can be found at Rollin’ Oats. To make the breadcrumbs, simply combine your grated bread with some lemon zest, olive oil and salt and pop into the oven until crisp and golden. Miso-Spinach Pesto with Pasta & Lemony Breadcrumbs This umami-packed spin on pesto would be great for more than just pasta. It would be great with roasted or grilled vegetables or even on a sandwich. High Speed BlenderStand Mixer with Pasta Attachments Miso-Spinach Pesto4 cups baby spinach1/2 cup olive oil1/2 cup cashews (Raw and unsalted. Soaked for 2 hours with boiling water)1/2 cup basil1/2 cup cilantro (You could sub this out for another 1/2 cup of basil and vice versa)2 tbsp mellow white miso2 garlic cloves (Peeled)1 lemon (Juice only)2 tsp salt (Plus more to taste)Pasta2 cups all purpose or 00 flour3 eggs1 tbsp olive oil1 1/2 tsp salt1/2 cup semolina flourLemony Breadcrumbs1/2 cup sourdough breadcrumbs (Grated with a course paddle microplane. You can also use store bought panko in place of this)1 lemon (Zest only)1 tsp olive oil1/2 tsp salt Miso-Spinach PestoPour enough boiling water over cashews to cover. Let sit for two hours to soften.After cashews soak, add all pesto ingredients to a high powered blender. Blend on high until pesto is creamy and well combined. Season with more salt to taste. Set pesto aside until ready to use.Homemade PastaAdd all purpose or 00 flour to the bowl of a stand mixer with eggs, olive oil and salt. Using your hands or a fork, combine until a shaggy dough begins to form.Knead with a dough hook for about ten minutes, or until dough is smooth and elastic. Let rest in a covered bowl for one hour.Add pasta sheet attachment to mixer and dust a clean counter with semolina flour. Divide dough into four equal sections.One section at a time, flatten dough into a small disc and pass through lowest setting of a pasta sheet maker. Fold dough in half like a brochure and run it through the same setting two more times.Turn knob to the next setting and run pasta sheet through. Repeat this process on each setting until dough is nearly paper thin. Cut the dough sheet in half to make it more manageable.Place dough sheets on prepared surface with semolina. Repeat steps with remaining three dough sections. By the end, you should have eight sheets.Add pasta attachment of choice to your mixer and run each sheet through to make your noodles – I opted for spaghetti.Place pasta noodles on a drying rack until you’re ready to cook and assemble your pasta.Lemony BreadcrumbsLine a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine breadcrumbs, lemon zest, olive oil and salt, spread onto baking sheet in an even layer and bake at 375F for 6-8 minutes, or until breadcrumbs are golden and crisp.AssemblyBring a pot of salted boiling water to a boil, add pasta and cook for 2-3 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water and strain the noodles. Add noodles back to the pot with pesto and a tablespoon or two of pasta water. Stir to combine, adding more pasta water as needed to thin out. Plate pasta, top with lemony breadcrumbs and serve. Condiment, Main DishAmerican, ItalianMiso-Spinach Pesto
February 1, 2023 15 Hour Potatoes & Steak Recipe

Steak is great, but when it comes to this meat and potatoes duo, it’s all about the potatoes baby. I’ve been itching to recreate this recipe with my own spin for a long time now. I actually had plans to make it for our Christmas dinner this year, but realized I was already fighting a losing battle when it was already Christmas morning and I hadn’t started the 15 hour process – oops. Yes, you read that right – a 15 hour process. Is it worth it? Yep. Was I skeptical initially? Sure was. All you need to properly execute this recipe is some potatoes, a mandolin slicer (crucial), a good amount of fat (duck fat, butter or olive oil), some flakey salt and a bit of patience. This two-day method does not disappoint and is actually quite simple. The process begins by slicing peeled potatoes ultra thin with a mandolin slicer. Then, toss them in fat and salt, stack them in a loaf pan and pop them into the oven at a super low temperature for a few hours. I used Olive Oil this time around because I had a lot on hand but I also highly recommend duck fat oil. At Rollin’ Oats, you can find EPIC brand cage-free duck fat oil and that would work quite well. Remove the potatoes, cover and weigh them down and then refrigerate for 12 hours (I prep the potatoes in the evening and let them hang in the fridge overnight). After the waiting period, slice, fry and eat with dipping sauce of choice. You *can* fry the potatoes in the air fryer as an alternative; however, it does not yield quite the same product. The potatoes do not get as crisp, but if you’d like to make them this way, heat your air fryer to 400F and cook the potatoes for about 8-10 minutes. If you’re going to fry them the way that I suggest – in oil – definitely use an oil with a high smoke point. A lot of recipes recommend peanut oil but I prefer to use avocado oil. Rollin’ Oats sells Primal Kitchen’s avocado oil and that’s what I utilized for this recipe. I turned my potatoes into a steak frites type of moment by pairing them with a lovely filet from Rollin’ Oats. They offer lots of quality grass-fed steak cuts from Thousand Hills that are sure to satisfy. You don’t have to have these potatoes with a steak though. They make for a great side dish for most any main and would be idyllic as a snack for the upcoming super bowl with a dipping sauce of choice. 15 Hour Potatoes and Steak Don't let the 15 hours scare you – the majority of that is either cook or rest time. These are going to become your new favorite potatoes. MandolinCandy ThermometerDutch OvenLoaf Pan 2-3 Yukon Gold Potatoes (Medium to large in size)1/4 cup Olive Oil (Or other fat like duck fat or butter)2 cups Avocado Oil (Other oil with a high smoke point will work as well)1 1/2 tsp Salt (Plus more as needed)Steak (This is optional, but it makes for a great dinner. I recommend a filet or a strip.)Dipping Sauce (Also optional, but an aioli or other dip makes for a great accessory to the potatoes)Flakey Salt (Like Maldon, to hit the potatoes with post-fry. This is optional – you can use whatever salt you have to finish.) Preheat oven to 250F. Peel potatoes and slice very thin with a mandolin slicer. Toss in a bowl with 1/2 cup olive oil (or fat of choice) and 1 1/2 tsp salt (plus more, as needed).Layer potatoes in a tight stack in a parchment-lined loaf pan. Cover with another sheet of parchment and bake for 3 hours.Remove from oven, weigh down the top of the parchment-topped potatoes evenly with cans or other heavy kitchen objects. Refrigerate for 12 hours (I allow this part to take place overnight). Remove weights and parchment and carefully invert potatoes onto a cutting board. Cut the potatoes into even 1" stacks and then cut all of those evenly in half.Heat oil in a dutch oven or pot with high walls over medium high heat. When the heat reaches about 375F, carefully drop in potatoes one at a time until a few are in the pot. Fry, turning occasionally, until potatoes are golden all over but not burnt – 3-5 minutes (keep an eye on them!). Remove from oil, hit them with a good sprinkle of salt and allow them to cool on a rack set over a baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining potatoes.While your potatoes are frying, prepare your steak of choice. I chose a filet and salted it all over and allowed it to sit at room temperature for 40 minutes before cooking it. I season with pepper and then sear it off for about 6-7 minutes, flipping occasionally, until I've reached a nice medium rare. Slice up and serve the steak along side the potato stacks with dipping sauce of choice and perhaps a drizzle of chili crisp, herbed butter or chimichurri on your steak. Appetizer, Side DishAmerican15 Hour Potato Recipe, Appetizer Recipe, Potato Recipe
January 10, 2023 Chicken Khao Soi Recipe

This dish is a consistent go-to of mine for so many reasons. Because of the ingredient list it may sound involved, but I assure you, the most difficult part of the process is prepping your mise en place. From start to finish, prep included, you can have this meal on the table in one hour flat. Utilizing your food processor is highly suggested when making the Khao Soi paste, which is the backbone of this whole dish. The first time I made this dish I did not own a food processor so I minced and chopped all of the ingredients by hand. It was great practice with my knife but it was daunting and made for a more textured paste. The Guajillo Chiles don’t boast a ton of heat in my opinion so I encourage you to add additional heat to your taste. I started adding in crushed red pepper and Gochugaru regularly and really enjoy the addition of a different spice element or two. The Gochugaru that I always buy is found at Rollin’ Oats – the brand is Mother in Law’s. I always keep it on hand and use it interchangeably with the crushed red pepper flakes. As for the noodles for this dish, most will recommend using Chinese egg noodles – Rollin’ Oats carries the Sharwood brand. I have used the egg noodles in the past and do enjoy them, but most of the time, I use whatever noodles I have on hand. This typically includes ramen, udon or soba. The noodles won’t make or break the dish so I encourage you to use your preference. Chicken Khao Soi This coconut curry noodle soup may sound involved, but it couldn't be easier to throw together in a pinch. Dutch Oven Khao Soi Paste6 garlic cloves (Peeled and crushed)2" fresh ginger (Peeled and roughly chopped)2 shallots (Medium in size – peeled and roughly chopped)5 guajillo chilies (Dried and medium in size)2 limes1/2 cup cilantro (Roughly chopped)2 tsp turmeric2 tsp curry powder2 tsp coriander (Ground)1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes or Gochugaru (This is optional, but suggested if you're looking for a bit more heat)Soup & Assembly2 tbsp olive oil2 cups vegetable broth2 14 oz cans coconut milk (Full fat and unsweet)2 chicken breasts (Boneless and skinless)salt (At least a couple of tsp, plus more as needed.)noodles (For example: ramen, udon, soba or Chinese egg noodles. Use whatever you have on hand or prefer.)2 carrots (Medium in size, peeled and sliced into thin rounds.)1/2 cup red onion (Sliced thin)1 jalapeño (Sliced into thin rounds) Khao Soi PasteBring a few cups of water to a boil in a kettle or on the stove top. Place chiles in a medium bowl and pour boiling water over to cover. Allow peppers to soften for at least 30 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup soaking liquid and discard the rest as well s the stems of the peppers.Add softened chiles and remaining Khao Soi paste ingredients and half of the chopped cilantro to a food processor with half of reserved soaking liquid. Process, adding more liquid as needed, until a paste forms.Soup and AssemblyHeat olive oil in a dutch oven over medium high heat and add paste to the pot. Cook for about five minutes – the paste will become quite fragrant and will take on a deeper color of red.Carefully pour in broth and coconut milk then add in the chicken. Bring the pot to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer and cover mostly, leaving the top slightly ajar – 30 minutes.Prepare noodles of choice and divide evenly between bowls.After chicken has cooked, taste and season the soup as needed and add the juice of one lime. Remove the chicken from the soup and shred using two forks – carefully return to the pot. Stir in sliced carrots.Ladle soup into the bowls with the noodles and top with sliced onion and cilantro and serve with additional lime wedges. DinnerThaiChicken Khao Soi, Coconut Curry Noodle Soup